How to apply lip liner, colour and gloss: four steps
6 min read Make-up Updated 1 November 2026 By Anna Sophie Schulenburg
You put on lip make-up in three layers. First the outline with the Lip Liner™, from the bow of your upper lip out to the corners of your mouth. Then the colour, from the centre outwards. Last, a dab of gloss in the middle of your lower lip. The evening before, prepare your lips with a thick layer of lip balm, and in the morning wipe off what is left with a damp flannel. You can tell whether it has held up after your first coffee: the outline is still there, and the colour has not run into the fine lines around your mouth.
Each of the three layers has its own job. The liner gives the colour an edge, the colour carries the shade, and the gloss adds shine. You can wear any one of them on its own, but together they hold longer and look neater.
Preparing your lips
On dry, flaky lips, every colour collects in the lines. That is why preparation starts the evening before: a thick layer of lip balm that soaks in overnight. In the morning, go over your lips once with a soft, damp flannel, without pressing. Loosened flakes come away with it.
Before the colour goes on, blot off the morning's balm with a tissue. A greasy layer under the liner makes it slip. Sugar or coffee scrubs on cracked lips rub open spots raw and sting, so skip them while your lips are cracked.
Liner, colour and gloss in four steps
Step 1 — Prepare. Blot off any leftover balm. Your lips should be dry and free of any film. A touch of concealer around the mouth helps if you want a very crisp outline.
Step 2 — Draw the outline. Start the liner in the centre of your upper lip and draw short strokes out to the right and the left corner of your mouth. Then do the lower lip, again from the centre outwards. Stay on your natural lip line. If you want the upper lip to stand out a little, take the line no more than a millimetre above the bow; anything more shows in daylight.
Step 3 — Apply the colour. Put on lipstick or liquid colour from the centre outwards, right up to the liner. Press a tissue briefly between your lips and apply a second, thin layer. Two thin layers last longer than one thick one. If you don't want a separate colour, fill the whole lip with the liner; that way the shade lasts longest.
Step 4 — Add the gloss. One dab of gloss in the centre of the lower lip, then press your lips together briefly. Too much gloss will run over the edge as the day goes on. After eating, you only need to top up the gloss.
Choosing your liner shade
| What you want | Which liner |
|---|---|
| A natural look with gloss | as close to your lip colour as possible |
| Lip colour that lasts a long time | in the shade of your lipstick, with the whole lip filled in |
| A crisp outline under a pale gloss | one shade darker than the gloss, with the line blurred inwards using a fingertip |
| A bold shade for the evening | exactly the shade of the colour, so no edge shows |
A liner that is much darker than the colour on top leaves a ring after a few hours, once the gloss has worn off. Whether warm or cool lip colours suit you depends on your undertone. How to find yours is set out in how to find your undertone.
Colours and textures compared
| Texture | How it feels | How long it lasts | Suits |
|---|---|---|---|
| Creamy lipstick | smooth, slightly shiny | a few hours | normal and dry lips |
| Matte lipstick | dry, velvety | longer | smooth lips, over a liner |
| Liquid lipstick | dries to a firm finish | longest | smooth lips, with balm the evening before |
| Tinted lip balm | like a balm, with little colour | short | dry lips, everyday wear |
| Gloss | shiny, a little sticky | short | on its own or as a finishing touch |
On dry lips, matte and liquid textures emphasise every line, so there you are better off reaching for creamy colours and gloss. How to make up the rest of your face on dry skin is set out in the guide to make-up on dry skin.
Dry and cracked lips
Lips have almost no oil glands of their own, so they dry out faster than the rest of your skin, especially in winter. Apply balm several times a day, and a thick layer before sleep. Don't lick them: the saliva evaporates and takes moisture with it. For the cold months, there are extra rules in the guide to winter skin care.
A gloss with “plumping” in its name can cause a tingle. If your lips are cracked or open, leave it out, along with any lip colour, until they have closed.
Cracked corners of the mouth that have not healed after two weeks of care belong with a dermatologist or your GP, because an infection or a deficiency may lie behind them. If your lips swell after a new product, blisters form, or they keep burning after you wipe the product off, a contact allergy may be behind it, and then that product stays out until a dermatologist has narrowed it down. If your face swells badly or breathing becomes hard, call 112 or your local emergency number straight away.
Common mistakes and how to correct them
| Mistake | Do this instead |
|---|---|
| Colour on freshly cared-for, greasy lips | blot off the balm first |
| Liner much darker than the colour, with a hard line | blur the line inwards with a fingertip, or fill in the whole lip |
| One thick layer of lipstick | two thin layers, blotting in between |
| Gloss over the whole lip, right to the edge | one dab in the centre of the lower lip |
| Scrub on cracked lips | care first, until the cracks have closed |
| Wearing lip colour overnight | take it off in the evening, then apply balm |
Taking it off in the evening
Long-wear and liquid colours do not come off well with water. Hold a cotton pad soaked in micellar water or a little cleansing oil on your lips for ten seconds, then wipe once instead of rubbing. Then apply your lip balm for the night. Where your lips belong in your evening routine is set out in the guide to the order of skincare and make-up.
If you do your make-up with MONAT
The German shop lists two products for the lips. The Lip Liner™ is a contour pencil that can also fill in the whole lip. The Lip-Plumping Gloss™ is a lip gloss, on its own or over the liner. At the last check, the German shop did not list a lipstick; in some other countries there is the Liquid Lipstick™. The product page shows which shades your country's shop carries, and the whole range is in the MONAT make-up overview.
Quick questions
How do I get lip colour that lasts longer?
Start with the liner over the whole lip as a base, then two thin layers of colour, blotting in between. Put gloss only in the centre, as otherwise it lifts the colour beneath faster.
Should the liner be lighter or darker than the lipstick?
The same shade, or at most one shade darker. A much darker liner stays behind as a ring once the colour has worn off in the centre.
Can I wear gloss without liner?
Yes. One dab in the centre of the lower lip is enough for everyday wear. Without liner, it simply runs into the fine lines around your mouth more quickly.
How long does an opened lipstick keep?
You will find it on the packaging: a symbol of an open jar with a number such as “12M”, which gives the months after opening. If it smells different or its texture has changed, throw it away.
Whether you are after lip colour that lasts or would rather have shine, the free skin analysis asks about it, and your consultant can suggest shades that suit you.