How to apply highlighter: where, how much and which shade
5 min read Make-up Updated 1 November 2026 By Anna Sophie Schulenburg
Highlighter belongs on the spots where light falls on your face anyway: the highest point of the cheekbone, the upper bridge of the nose if you like, the cupid's bow and the spot under the brow bone. For liquid highlighter, take one rice-grain-sized drop per cheek, dab it into a strip about as wide as a fingertip and pat the edges out. When it sits right, you see a glow from arm's length, but no edge.
Highlighter reflects light. It works where the skin is smooth and faces forward, and it emphasises everything it sits on, pores and flakes included. That is why placement and amount decide the result more than the product does.
Where highlighter belongs
| Spot | Amount for liquid highlighter | What it looks like | Skip it if |
|---|---|---|---|
| The highest point of the cheekbone | one grain of rice per side | the face catches the light from the side | the skin there is flaking or has spots |
| The upper bridge of the nose | a touch, as a thin line | the nose looks narrower in the light | your nose shines at midday |
| The cupid's bow | a touch on the peak | the upper lip gets a clearer outline | you have fine lines there |
| Under the brow bone | a touch at the highest point | the eye area looks more open | your eyelids get oily |
| The inner corner of the eye | a dot | the gaze looks more awake | your eyes water quickly |
For everyday wear, the cheekbone is enough. The other spots are extras for an evening or a special occasion.
Where highlighter does not belong
Don't apply it under the eyes over fine lines, because the glow emphasises them. Don't put it on spots or red areas, because it makes them stand out. Avoid dry, flaky patches, because it clings to every flake. Don't cover the whole cheek, because the face then looks greasy rather than fresh. And skip the forehead and the tip of the nose if your T-zone shines during the day, because that is shine on top of shine.
If your T-zone shines but your cheeks don't, apply highlighter only to the cheekbones. How to care for both zones overall is explained in zone-by-zone care for combination skin.
How to apply highlighter in four steps
Step 1 — Prepare the skin. Give your moisturiser and sunscreen two minutes to sink in. Highlighter goes on after foundation, concealer and blush, but before any powder. The sequence for everything else is set out in the guide to the order of skincare and make-up.
Step 2 — Find the spot. Place your index finger horizontally under your cheekbone and feel upwards until you find the highest point. It usually sits somewhere between the wings of your nose and the outer corner of your eye. Don't smile while you do this, because smiling lifts the apple of the cheek and the highlighter lands too low.
Step 3 — Dab it on. Put one rice-grain-sized drop on the back of your hand and pick it up with your ring finger. Dab it on in three dots along the cheekbone towards the temple, then join the dots into a strip about as wide as a fingertip.
Step 4 — Pat and check. Pat the edges out with a clean fingertip until no edge is visible. Then look in the mirror in daylight from arm's length and turn your head to one side. If you see a bright streak rather than a glow, take a little off with a damp cotton bud.
Liquid, cream or powder
| Texture | How it behaves | Suits | Goes on |
|---|---|---|---|
| Liquid | thin, melts into the skin, easy to dose | dry and normal skin, a subtle glow | before your face powder |
| Cream or stick | a little firmer, pats in well | dry skin, quick application on the go | before your face powder |
| Powder | dry, applied with a brush, stronger effect | oily and combination skin | after your face powder |
On dry skin, liquid and cream highlighters look calmer than powder. How to prepare for it is explained in the guide to make-up on dry skin.
Choosing the right shade
The shade depends on your undertone. With a warm undertone, gold and champagne highlighters suit you; with a cool one, rosy and rose-gold ones; with a neutral undertone, both work. The darker your skin, the more golden or bronze it can be. A very light, silvery highlighter often looks grey on darker skin. How to read your undertone in daylight is explained in the guide to finding your undertone.
For photos and flash
Flash reflects the glow more strongly than you see it in the mirror. For an evening with lots of photos, use half a grain of rice per side instead of a whole one, and skip the nose and the brow bone. Take a test photo with flash on your phone before you head out.
Common mistakes and how to fix them
| Mistake | Better |
|---|---|
| Highlighter over the whole cheek | only on the highest point of the cheekbone, a fingertip wide |
| Applying it while smiling | with a relaxed face, after feeling for the spot |
| Highlighter on fresh, shiny cream | wait two minutes |
| Liquid highlighter over powder | apply it before your face powder |
| Highlighter under the eye | on the bone above it |
| Leaving an edge | pat it out with a clean fingertip |
If you wear MONAT make-up
In Germany, MONAT lists the Liquid Highlighter™, a liquid shimmer for dabbing, in two shades: Champagne, the more golden one, for a warm undertone, and Rose Gold, the rosier one, for a cool undertone. One rice-grain-sized drop per cheek is enough. For a more subtle look, mix one drop into your moisturiser and spread it over your cheeks. If the Glam Essentials Palette™ contains powder shades, they go on after the Liquid Highlighter™. The product page in your country's MONAT shop shows which shades are currently listed, and what else MONAT offers for cheeks and lips is set out in the MONAT make-up overview.
Quick questions
Highlighter before or after blush?
After. Blush goes on the apple of the cheek and the highlighter on the bone above it, so the two don't blend on the same spot.
Can I wear highlighter without foundation?
Yes. On moisturised skin with sunscreen, it is enough on its own, or you can pair it with a gloss for a quick everyday look.
Does highlighter suit oily skin?
Yes, sparingly and only on the cheekbones. Otherwise the T-zone gets shine on top of shine, and a powder highlighter sits more calmly on oily skin than a liquid one.
How long does an opened highlighter last?
That is printed on the packaging. The symbol of an open jar with a number such as “12M” gives the months after opening.
The free skin analysis asks what kind of glow you want on your cheeks and which shade suits you.